Climb Khan Tengri

Mangystau Tour - Bozzhira Mangystau region

Overview:

Khan Tengri is a giant mountain in the Tien Shan mountain range. It is located on the border of China, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, east of Lake Issyk-Kul. With a geological height of 6,995 m (22,949 ft), Khan Tengri is a massive marble pyramid covered in snow and ice.

In mountaineering circles it is considered a 7,000-metre peak, one of the highest in the Tien Shan.

The name “Khan Tengri” means “King Heaven” in Kazakh and “King Sky” in Mongolian. It may refer to the deity Tengri, who is important in pagan Tengrism and Central Asian Buddhism.

Locals call the mountain ‘Khan Tangiri Shyngy’, ‘Kan-Too Chokusu’, ‘Pik Khan-Tengry’ and ‘Hantengri Feng’ in various local languages.

Khan Tengri is a stunner. At sunset the marble glows red and is known as “Blood Mountain” in Kazakh and Kyrgyz. It’s symmetrical ridges and geometric shape make it one of the most beautiful peaks in the world, according to Russian mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev.

Historically Khan Tengri was thought to be the second highest mountain peak in the Tian Shan range until Jengish Chokusu was surveyed in 1943 and found to be higher.

The first ascent of Khan Tengri was made in 1931 by Mikhail Pogrebetsky’s Ukrainian team from the summit of peak south side in Kyrgyzstan. Since then it has been a popular destination for mountaineers and climbing Khan Tengri is considered a major tick.

Khan Tengri is one of the five peaks that must be climbed to earn the Snow Leopard award in the Soviet mountaineering community.

Best time to climb Khan tengri is mid-July to end of August, as it’s the northernmost 7,000 metre peak in the world. But be aware that peaks at high latitudes have a shorter climbing season, harsher weather and thinner air.

North side of Khan Tengri is considered the safest to climb, minimal avalanche risk and VHF radio communication throughout the route.We offer guided expeditions and support. Expeditions include acclimatisation periods and different routes to the summit, like the classical route from the west ridge to north side of the mountain.

But climbing Khan Tengri is a technically difficult activity and climbers should have previous experience at high altitude guide, and be self-sufficient in high mountain environments.

As well as rock climbing, there are trekking opportunities in the Khan Tengri region central asia, like the trek to the base camp of the South Inylchek Glacier. These treks offer stunning views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.

Please note that climb Khan Tengri and participating in any mountaineering expedition is physically demanding and carries inherent risks. It is essential to be well prepared, well equipped and have a thorough understanding of mountaineering skills and safety procedures.

It is also advisable to consult experienced guides and tour operators before embarking on any climbing or trekking adventure in the Khan Tengri region.

Risks and Challenges

Climbing Khan Tengri Peak is not for the faint of heart. The route is high altitude, exposed ridges and steep slopes and can be affected by bad weather, crevasses and rockfall. To manage these risks you must:

Hire experienced guides and porters who know the terrain and weather.
Use good quality climbing gear, high altitude tents, ice axes and fixed ropes.
Do a risk assessment and contingency planning.
Monitor weather forecasts and be prepared to change the itinerary.
Make sure all team members are physically and mentally prepared for the climb.

By doing all this you can reduce the risks and increase the success and safety of the climb.

the summit of peak south side in Kyrgyzstan

Bad Weather

Bad weather and poor visibility is a big risk when climbing Khan Tengri Peak. The mountain is known for its unpredictable weather and can include snowstorms, high winds and low visibility. To deal with bad weather you must:

Monitor weather forecasts regularly and change the itinerary.
Carry emergency shelter and communication equipment, satellite phone and portable stove.
Have a contingency plan for emergency situations, including evacuation procedures.
Make sure all team members have warm and waterproof clothing, crampons and ice axes.
Consider using fixed lines and ropes to secure the route and prevent falls.

By being prepared and flexible you can minimise the risks of bad weather and have a successful and safe climb.

Itinerary:

Arrive in Almaty, the largest city in Kazakhstan, where your adventure begins. Upon arrival at Almaty International Airport, you will be greeted by our friendly guide and transferred to your hotel.

Spend the day at leisure, exploring the city’s vibrant attractions such as the bustling Green Market, the serene Panfilov Park, and the historic Zenkov Cathedral.

In the evening, gather with your guide and fellow climbers for a welcome dinner and an informative briefing about the upcoming expedition. This is a perfect opportunity to get to know your team and discuss the exciting journey ahead.

Karkara is a stunning destination located on the border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.

Known for its beautiful alpine meadows, the Karkara Valley offers visitors a serene escape into nature, surrounded by majestic mountains and the peaceful Karkara River.

This region is a perfect spot for outdoor activities like hiking, horseback riding, and photography, while also offering a glimpse into local nomadic traditions. The valley is also home to a popular base camp and is known for its delicious traditional drink, kumys, made from fermented mare’s milk.

Take a thrilling helicopter flight from Karkara to the Northern Inylchek Glacier, where you will set up your base camp. The aerial journey offers breathtaking views of the rugged landscapes, rivers, and alpine meadows below.

Once at the base camp, embark on an acclimatization trek to Bas Karkara Peak, standing at 4050 meters. This trek is designed to help your body adjust to the high altitude, ensuring you are well-prepared for the climb ahead.

The trek also provides stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains, making it a rewarding experience both physically and visually.

Helicopter is a unique and thrilling way to get to base camp fast and easy. The Khan Tengri Base Camp is a crucial point in the climbing itinerary, providing a starting point for acclimatization and skill practice.

Experience the beauty of Karkara Valley and surrounding peaks from above as you fly over rugged landscapes, rivers and alpine meadows. This helicopter transfer saves time and gives you a scenic aerial view of the terrain and sets the scene for your adventure.

It’s the perfect way to start your trek, so you can skip the long hike and arrive at base high camp ready to climb at higher elevation.

Climbing in Kazakhstan usually takes place during the summer months from June to September when the weather is best for high altitude expeditions.

During this period temperatures are milder and snow conditions are more stable, so it’s perfect for mountaineering. For higher peaks like in Tien Shan and Altai ranges climbers should be prepared for colder temperatures and possible snowfall, especially in early summer or late September.

The best time to attempt major climbs, like to Bas Karkara Peak or other summits, is usually July and August when the weather is warmer and risks of extreme cold and storms are lower.

This is a scenic drive from Karkara Valley to Almaty city. The drive takes around 5-6 hours, passing through beautiful landscapes, hills, rivers and grasslands.

You will see the beauty of Kazakhstan with the Tien Shan mountains in the distance. Upon arrival in Almaty you will be welcomed by the city’s modern amenities, historical sites and bustling markets, perfect end of your adventure.

This transfer will help you to smoothly transition from the mountains to the city.

Today we will take you to main attractions of Almaty city that includes visit to local bazaar, hike in Kok Tobe Hill and farewell dinner

Departure is the final step of your journey, where you’ll be transferred from your accommodation or base camp to the airport or onward travel point.

As you leave the stunning landscapes behind, take a moment to reflect on the unforgettable experiences, breathtaking views, and the adventures you’ve had in Kazakhstan.

We wish you a smooth and pleasant journey as you depart with lasting memories of your time in this beautiful region.

Climb Khan Tengri

Duration: 22-Days
Best time: July-August
Begin and end: Almaty city
Tour type: Mountaineering
Price from: 4250 USD p.p

Our highlights

Summit to Khan Tengri 7010 m
Almaty highlights
Shymbulak, Big Almaty lake

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Tour Price Includes

Accommodation / tent, hotel, guest house/
Land Transportation
English speaking guide
Local Driver
Helicopter support
Eat & Drink
Fees & Permits
Almaty Day Tour

Tour price excludes

Personal needs
Alcoholic beverages
Gratitude

Tour details:

Warm clothes – Hat, Gloves, Jacket, Pants,
Footwear – Hiking boots, Socks, Sandals,
Clothes – Mid-Base layers, Light clothes,
Thermos,
Hand sanitizer,
Towel,
Foam pad,
Trash bags,
Solar-panel,
Power bank.

There is a shower room service, and toilet at the lower base camp camp

Khan Tengri is for the advanced mountaineers who are preparing for the summit bid the 8000’s.

Double boots
Harness
Sleeping bag – for about -25C/ 5F
Ice axe
Backpack – mountaineering backpack 70L, and another daypack for trekking.
Crampon – make sure that they works with your boots
Carabiners – locking carabiners x2.
Helmet
Glasses for snow – (goggles), sunglasses.
Sunscreen – maximum SPF, lip screen.
Basic first aid kit,
Headlamp,
Water bottle,
Trekking poles with snow baskets.
Buff
High altitude tent – crucial for providing shelter and comfort in extreme conditions

Gaiters, Ascender, Slings, Rappel device, Personal items, Personal Snacks, Chemical hand warmers, Camera, Books.

To confirm your trip we ask you to pay 1000 USD DEPOSIT and the balance can be paid 2 months before the tour start date. We ask you to make your payment by bank transfer (SWIFT CODE)

Here is our cancellation policy that we recommend our clients follow.

Cancelling the tour within more than 2 months, 50% of your deposit payment will be rebussed (500 USD)

Cancellation within less than 1 month, the deposit will not be refunded (1000 USD)

Tour includes 3 nights in Almaty city. During the days ahead the summit day of climbing you have mountain sleeping bags.

The expeditions includes all eat & drink during rest day during your stay

You will be supported by local mountains guides and English