Climb Khan Tengri

Overview:

Khan Tengri is an amazing mountain located in the Tien Shan mountain range. It is located on the border of China, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, east of Lake Issyk-Kul. With a geological height of 6,995 m (22,949 ft), Khan Tengri is a massive marble pyramid covered in snow and ice. In mountaineering circles, it is considered a 7,000-metre peak, making it one of the highest peaks in the Tien Shan.

The name “Khan Tengri” translates as “King Heaven” in Kazakh and “King Sky” in Mongolian. It may refer to the deity Tengri, who is important in pagan Tengrism and Central Asian Buddhism. Local people also refer to the mountain as ‘Khan Tangiri Shyngy’, ‘Kan-Too Chokusu’, ‘Pik Khan-Tengry’ and ‘Hantengri Feng’ in various local languages.

Khan Tengri’s features make it a remarkable sight. At sunset, the mountain’s marble glows red, earning it the name ‘Blood Mountain’ in Kazakh and Kyrgyz. Its symmetrical ridges and geometric shape make it one of the most beautiful peaks in the world, according to Russian mountaineer Anatoli Boukreev.

In terms of historical significance, Khan Tengri was thought to be the highest peak in the Tian Shan range until Jengish Chokusu was surveyed in 1943 and found to be higher. The first ascent of Khan Tengri was made in 1931 by Mikhail Pogrebetsky’s Ukrainian team from the south side in Kyrgyzstan. Since then, it has been a popular destination for mountaineers and climbing Khan Tengri is considered a major achievement. Khan Tengri is one of the five peaks that must be climbed to earn the prestigious Snow Leopard award in the Soviet mountaineering community.

The best time to climb Khan Tengri is from mid-July to the end of August, as it is the northernmost 7,000 metre peak in the world. However, climbers should be aware that peaks at high latitudes often have a shorter climbing season, harsher weather and thinner air. The north side of Khan Tengri is considered the safest to climb, with minimal avalanche risk and VHF radio communication throughout the route.

We offer carefully planned guided expeditions and support. These expeditions include acclimatisation periods and different routes to the summit, such as the classic route from the north side of the mountain. However, climbing Khan Tengri is a technically difficult endeavour and climbers are advised to have previous experience at altitude and to be self-sufficient in high mountain environments.

As well as climbing, there are trekking opportunities in the Khan Tengri region, such as the trek to the base camp of the South Inylchek Glacier. These treks offer stunning views of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.

Please note that climbing Khan Tengri and participating in any mountaineering expedition is physically demanding and carries inherent risks. It is essential to be well prepared, well equipped and have a thorough understanding of mountaineering skills and safety procedures. It is also advisable to consult experienced guides and tour operators before embarking on any climbing or trekking adventure in the Khan Tengri region.

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